So the last couple weeks have been simply amazing in bishop! The few days before I left for jtree were full of win and then the last week or two have been even better! First off the last few days I was in bishop before I went to jtree I went to the sad boulders and was able to knock out Molly(v5), and Flash Strength in Numbers(v5). After that my psych was really high for my thanksgiving trip!
Coming back from jtree I decided to take three days off so I could recuperate my muscles and joints and get some skin back. since then I've had friends coming into bishop every weekend. Two weekends ago Nic Sabo and his posse from Humbolt came and with the help of Nic's psych I was able to get a bunch of sick stuff up at the Druid Stones includeing Arch Druid(v5), Flash Arch Druid Left(v5), Flawed Genious(v5), and Hook, Line, and Sinker(v5).
Nic had given himself a birthday challenge of climbing 23 climbs as well as having his top three climbs add up to 23. Unfortunately the second part of the goal was off by a measly 1 point! but I think he was able to send 24 climbs so that should make up for it! =) Nic was up there crushing hard, flashing 5's left and right and even this v6 gem called Sky Dance over looking the city of bishop. The two v8's he was able to nab that day were Through the Window, and Old Ei.
After such a great weekend I couldn't wait till the next weekend when my buddy Dustin was going to be coming up with a group of his friends from the Santa Barbara area. When they got here to bishop we met up in the happys for a nice midday sesh. I wanted to try and finish everything in the heavenly path area so after they warmed up and headed to Mister Witty I stayed for another 30minutes finishing all of the climbs,but the v5 traverse more water less power, on the More water less power and heavenly path boulders. I then met them up the hill on Mister Witty(v6) where both Jeremy and Dustin managed to finish it!! I still couldn't manage to get the second move up to the sidepull so I decided to try out Every Color You Are(v6) instead. I got a small flapper on the top of my pointer finger of my right hand from the finger lock and since I fell from the crux I decided to tape my finger. I sent it the very next go!! I was beyond psyched because I had given it a good 5-6 burns the first time I worked on it and wasn't even close to sending.
The next day, Saturday, we were in the milks and Jeremy's friend Jenn had driven in the night before so we headed up to the tut boulder to get some warm ups in before we headed out to Saigon. After we repeated the tut's I told the guys I wanted to try Howard Carter Sit start(v6) just to the right of the two tut problems. Dustin joined me and we both managed a send on it! still feeling strong and having a good psych going we headed to Saigon and Jeremy and Dustin were just an inch or so away from nabbing the jug to Saigon(v6). I gave Saigon a few goes but since I wasn't getting anywhere near the jug I gave Saigon Direct(v9) a few tries. I couldn't stick the pinch that day so I moved on to the smooth shrimp boulder to try Smooth Shrimp(v6) I managed to get it on about my third try that day making it two v6 projects that day!!
For Sunday we headed back to the Happys to finish off strong and met up with Niko and Kevin, basically my neighbors whom I met in the buttermilks. After some warming up on the heavenly path boulder again we headed back towards the entrance of the happys and hopped on The Gleaner(v6). A bunch of people, mainly our group with a few extras, were trying it and failing abysmally. Then Niko comes over and shows a really cool way of basically blindly dynoing for the jug pocket around the lip and flashes it that way. Once I saw his beta I was ready to give it a try myself, I had previously spend a good hour sesh on it the year before. I was able to get it second go after Niko showed me that sick dyno beta!!
Everybody else gave up after mine and Niko's sends wanting to try other climbs. So we headed to hulk for a few tries. After another sesh of me not being able to make any headway on it we moved on to Serengeti towards the back of the happys. Both Dustin and Jeremy were able to get Serengeti(v5) and I was able to send the right variation of it for the repeat. After that I tried this really awkward and sharp line on the right of Serengeti called War Drum(v4) I was able to get it in a couple tries once I figured out the weird beta, it finishes on the bug flake of Serengeti. After sending those projects I was off to Sucker Punch(v5) to work it with this group of girls that had the whole thing padded up nicely. Even with the new beta I got from a couple people involving a heelhook above your head it took three or four goes to sent it. Once it went though it was magical. I was able to match the sloping crimp rail and bump to the top while at the same time my heelhook popped and, heres where the magic happens, my left foot slotted exactly on the jug left foot hold in this flaring crack below and to the left of the finish hold. It was so exciting to have everything work so perfectly on that climb like that, I could tell it had scarred the girls who were spotting me. haha =P I then went back to see what my group was up to and they were just packing up to leave. We all headed out and wished each other well as I told them to come back soon.
Pretty psyched on 4 v6 projects going down I stayed in town for a day or two recovering from the long weekend. I got a call for an interview a couple days ago for the casino in town and Nailed the interview and got hired or at least sent away with the paper work to complete! This was very good news since the night before I had gotten another flat tire because of a broken drill bit that was logged in the left rear tire. Consequentially I had already replaced that tire with the spare because of another puncture a month or two previous. So having no spare tire I was forced to spend the night before my interview in my car without a sleeping bag! Uggh Luckily the interview the next day went great and i was able to get my tire repaired across the street at a mechanic shop behind a chevron.
Feeling better now that I had a working car and could get a good night sleep once again i headed back to the Milks to take one final night there before the big winter storm set in on friday. So today I got up late and headed to the birthday boulders to try a project that I had started earlier in the summer that I call Birthday Hug(v6) because I don't like Unnamed #4. With Jared giving me a spot and holding down the pads I was able to get it in about 20minutes!! It was crazy windy btw so some of the time the pads would go flying. haha After sending one project I wanted to try to get another so Jared and I headed up the hill to the fly boy boulder. I gave it a few unsuccessful burns and then took a rest by looking at Fall Guy(v9) on the other side of the boulder with Jared. After a good probably ten minutes I went back and hopped back on two goes later I sent Fly Boy Sit Start(v8) only my second at the grade!!!!!! The wind on the top of the boulder was so strong I could literally lean into it without falling! haha
So that basically sums up the last couple weeks here in bishop. One V8, five V6's, and a ton of V5's and V4's! Now I just need my neck to loosen up, I kinda jacked it up somehow on flyboy. I hope it will only take a day or two of rest to heal then I'll be able to climb on the table lands!! I have a few good projects there I cant wait to hop on.
Until the next update,
The Irish King
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